Gusset Love

Who needs a blog post about bag gussets? I do. You do. Because gussets are the unsung heroes of a handbag. They provide the room for all the needed & random things we carry around and not only are they functional but they’re fun to play around with!
Below are some gusset examples. Note that these are not the only ways to make a gusset, and all gusset shapes and construction can be tinkered with! All is fair game!

1. Straight single panel - this type wraps around the sides and bottom of your bag. It can be sewn with seam allowances inward (retourne) or outward (sellier) or even overlapped! (One in - one out).
The single panel is usually a straight piece but can have some variation - wider at the middle so that the bottom Of your bag is wider than the sides, for example. This can also be broken up into 3 pieces, sides and bottom.

2. I like to call this one a wedge or a file folder gusset. The bottom of the gusset is small and round in shape. The gusset increases in width all the way to the top to allow one to open the bag wide enough to put things inside.

3. Architectural gusset. I made this name up as I have only seen one other name to this style and am more comfortable calling it something else. This style utilizes negative space to create the turn of the corner. See below an example of a bag and a pattern. 

4. Set-out (sellier) standard gusset. Note the natural color gusset has no darts in the corners. Rust colored bag has darts to give dimension and makes for clean sewing.

 5. Set-in (sellier) This style is fun as it is a two piece gusset. The 2nd interior strip is the connector between the gusset and the rest of the bag. 

 6. Combo welted. The picture below is not mine, but I wanted to give you a visual (credit to whoever made gusset/took photo! ) The sketch below is mine, to show you how the pattern piece looks sewn and unsewn. 

Thanks for sticking around! There are so many other options and types of gussets. The best way to play is to get some paper out and mock some up!